During the event of four days which took place between the seaside capital Lisbon and its financial center Porto, forward-looking collections exhibited innovative, uninhibited designs which, at the same time, celebrated rich sartorial culture textile expertise and the country. In fact, if you aren’t already a fan of Portuguese fabrics, you will become probably a treating after Fashion Week here.
Ceremonial and bobbin lace made beachfront Portuguese hamlets, fisherman at the net and hook of cotton were some woven traditional fabrics constantly in the programming mode 2015/16 men and women who were titled by names like Daniela Barros, Joao Melo Costa, Diogo Miranda fall/winter and Luis Buchinho, who demonstrated in the capitals of fashion as Paris and London.
“We have new products and ideas of very cool mode. We are very close to our clients. It is the secret of our survival and also how we will work to increase our presence in the future, said Paulo Vaz, Director-general of the nation textile association Associação Selectiva Moda. Portugal exports to 180 countries in the world. One of their main customers is the conglomerate of Inditex. Portuguese House for brands of fast-fashion Zara and Massimo Dutti, Inditex purchases approximately EUR 600 million to EUR 700 million with a value of suppliers of textile fabrics per year.
Neil Barrett, Celine, Alexander Wang and Balenciaga are some luxury brands that would buy Portuguese fabrics.
“International brands tributary to the Portugal because we are able to produce one-of-a-kind fabrics made with our expertise and the vision of the designer,” said Vaz.
Deconstructed looks born thanks to the vision of the designer and the manufacturer of textiles were prevalent.
Katty Xiomara, who presented his last collection spring/summer from New York Pier 59, deployed collection a ‘revolution’, this season, playing with traditional contours and clothing lines. His crisp collared uniform of inspiration shirts bore front pleats and starched collars that were decorated with corners gently to the hook, and blouses were made with ceremony Portuguese lace, which recalls the handkerchiefs of farewell that waving once adieu for tall ships the country during his legendary colonial period.
Designer of Susana Bettencourt, a specialist of the mesh, introduced a line of women inspired by nomadic cultures such as the Eastern African Masai and other tribes who live in harmony with nature.
Drapery rich jacquards and wool have been the hallmark of his collection, which was complimented by his line of jewelry, pieces of copper to jumbo that she and his staff welded and cast by hand.
A former student of Central Saint Martins in London, Bettencourt left London because she had difficulty with basic materials for its collections.
“It was difficult to create my own line of London. I now live here, 30 minutes two factories, with which I work. I design each print and pattern that I developed in collaboration with the manufacturer, with their computer program, and I am able to make tissues as I would like,”Bettencourt said backstage, where she got to damask silk textured with lambswool and mohair, also as elastic son contrasting with the wool of cashmere for added texture.
Joao Melo Costa line, for example, was inspired in large part by a technological and door symbols of digital culture, pattern as hashtag prints and digital graphics. On the other hand, it incorporates traditional fabrics such as organza, which he forged hand. “There are thousands of nodes that I attached, but it was important for me to take the time and do it myself,” he said.
Mission of Portugal Fashion Week was also to young, new designers under the spotlight with their Bloom project which started in 2010.
Recent graduate of school of fashion Pedro Neto presented his collection in the Renaissance Arab Moorish room gilded, ornate Porto stock exchange of the 19th century building. The young designer juxtaposed heavy materials like crushed velvet and coated curly with flirty pleated pants trimmed and silk organza to create a sense of texture for its winter lined with tricot, asymmetrical looks.
Bloom colleague KLAR label boasts eco-sustainable development. Their motive linear digital-age caterer one digitally informed globe-trotting youth culture that respects a dress code for all occasions.
For autumn/winter, they combine to shoes with Parisian label views similar Rombaut, which makes its shoes with the organic cotton and natural rubber for their inspiration fencing shoes.
In Lisbon, in an industrial area in the center of the city, Act Bloom Hibu also presented looks all place-all-time, rooted in the minimalist mantra of the duo. A tribute to the world of fine sewing, fabric stripes were performed in Samurai like pantsuits. Rayon fabrics and jersey has dominated the track.
“All our eyes are handmade by Portuguese seamstresses and tissues were made by Portuguese companies,” says co-founder of 24 years Gonçalo Páscoa, who designs the label with partner 23-year-old Marta Gonçalves.
Overall, a time of uninhibited creativity impregnated the tracks two populated areas of Portugal, due in part cities in philosophy shared by the Bloom project mentors.
Conservative project Miguel Flor has worked with international brands such as Maison Margiela, a Belgian brand known for his abstract and avant-garde creativity.
“I try to convey to them is that they must be individual, and while they need to know that other designers do, they must also be very intellectual. Intellectuality – this is the most important for me in fashion at the moment. »
Dylan Wilde Hershman, co-founder of London designer sale agency Easternblock, said that he had the eye of innovative brands with a “hint of the business acumen.”
“We come here in the hope that one day one of them will do things and become a great power. If a collection is awesome, we will be sure to fall in love with it at the outset, “said Hershman, noting that the proximity and the economic cost of labour and materials designers with an edge more designers in London and Paris, who should move to source their supplies.
Romain Bräu, a designer of couture parisienne and co-founder of the Antwerp Studio, agrees. “There is always a surprise here because these designers are well connected to their production base and are well educated,” Brau said on the sidelines of the parade Miguel Vieira.
For the first time since the financial crisis, textile and clothing of the nation created 4 000 jobs, and its economy is expected to increase by 1.7% in 2015 and 1.9% in 2016.
While the Portugal fashion shows can not be compared to Paris or Milan, the economic recovery is edifying moral on the runway and encourages youth to the conquest of the worldwide fashion industry.
“From Lisbon a brand can be a challenge, but if you believe in yourself you can do it,” said Páscoa.
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